||True Brew tm
Beer Ingredient Kit
All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case)
Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient
kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest
quality ingredients available.
Beginning Gravity: 1.052 - 1.054
Final Gravity: 1.012 - 1.014
Hop Bittering Units: 14
Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing.
This kit should contain:
Hopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can
Unhopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can
Melanoidin Malt Grain – 4 oz
Grain Steeping Bag
Hop Pellets – 1 oz
Ale Yeast – 1 pack
Priming Sugar – 5 oz
Other Equipment you’ll need:
Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped
Fermenter with lid
Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container
Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon
50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks)
Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine
part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be
used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Sanitizer. If necessary,
finish with a rinse of cool water.
- Remove the labels from the cans of malt extract, wash the cans, and
place them in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup.
- Place 1-1 ˝ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil.
- Turn the heat off. Place the grains in the steeping bag, and steep in
the hot water for 20-30 minutes. Then remove and discard the spent grains,
and heat the water again to near boiling.
- Turn the heat off (on an electric stove, temporarily remove from
burner). While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour
both cans of extract into the pot. Stir until materials dissolve, then
return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture
will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn
heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Add approximately ˝
the package of hop pellets and stir them in, and then boil for 30 minutes,
adding the rest of the hop pellets for the final 1-2 minutes of the boil.
- Place 3 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly
pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water as
necessary to bring volume up to 5 gallons.
||Allow the warm mixture (it’s now
unfermented beer, called wort) to cool if necessary, until it’s under 90
||If you wish to take a hydrometer reading
for beginning specific gravity, do so now before introducing yeast.
Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these
||Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the
mixture. Wait 10 minutes and stir the yeast gently into the wort with 1
or 2 strokes of the spoon.
||Taking the airlock in one hand, and the
lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the
hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard
until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and
place its cap on top.
||Over the next 24 hours fermentation should
begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should
continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins.
||Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days
after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally,
you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation.
The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be
screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are
checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any
bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully
following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as
- Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached , filler,
all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used.
- In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until
dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat.
- Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the
floor or a chair at a lower level.
- If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now.
- Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking
tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and
beer should begin to flow.
- When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the
warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of
the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly.
- Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom
of the fermenter.
- Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level.
- Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing and
replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible
tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket.
- Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill
when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is
removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle.
Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space.
- Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary.
- Clean all equipment prior to storage.
- Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then
be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool
dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks.
You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!