True Brew tm

Beer Ingredient Kit

All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch

Red Ale

Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available.

Brew Stats:

Beginning Gravity: 1.052 - 1.054

Final Gravity: 1.012 - 1.014

Hop Bittering Units: 14

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1) Preparation:

Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing.

This kit should contain:

Hopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can

Unhopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can

Melanoidin Malt Grain – 4 oz

Grain Steeping Bag

Hop Pellets – 1 oz

Ale Yeast – 1 pack

Priming Sugar – 5 oz

Bottle Caps


Other Equipment you’ll need:


Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot

Fermenter with lid




Siphon Set

Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container

Bottle Filler

Bottle Brush




Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon

Bottle Capper

50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks)


Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Sanitizer. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water.


2) Brewing:

  • Remove the labels from the cans of malt extract, wash the cans, and place them in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup.
  • Place 1-1 ˝ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil.
  • Turn the heat off. Place the grains in the steeping bag, and steep in the hot water for 20-30 minutes. Then remove and discard the spent grains, and heat the water again to near boiling.
  • Turn the heat off (on an electric stove, temporarily remove from burner). While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour both cans of extract into the pot. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Add approximately ˝ the package of hop pellets and stir them in, and then boil for 30 minutes, adding the rest of the hop pellets for the final 1-2 minutes of the boil.
  • Place 3 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water as necessary to bring volume up to 5 gallons.

3) Fermentation:

bullet Allow the warm mixture (it’s now unfermented beer, called wort) to cool if necessary, until it’s under 90 degrees F.
bullet If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for beginning specific gravity, do so now before introducing yeast. Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these instructions.
bullet Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the mixture. Wait 10 minutes and stir the yeast gently into the wort with 1 or 2 strokes of the spoon.
bullet Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and place its cap on top.
bullet Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins.
bullet Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation.

4) Bottling

The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary.

  • Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached , filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used.
  • In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat.
  • Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level.
  • If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now.
  • Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow.
  • When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly.
  • Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter.
  • Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level.
  • Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing and

replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible

tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket.

  • Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space.
  • Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary.
  • Clean all equipment prior to storage.
  • Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks.


You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!